Day 31 – Fort Frances to Atikokan – Total distance traveled 3154kms

First I have some explaining to. I thought I would be cycling through Quetico Provincial Park for the next two days. I’m not sure what led me to believe that but it has something to do with not having an Ontario road map. Quetico actually lies to the south of Highway 11 and doesn’t have any roads through it.

Nevertheless, it’s still a very unpopulated area and I cycled through at least 140kms of nothing but rocks, lakes and trees. Very beautiful rocks, lakes and trees, but quite uninhabited all the same.

The good thing about all of this is that approximately half way there is a town called Atikokan and that’s where I got wifi access from, and beer.

On the way out of town I learned a little about the history of the area and a lot of things came together for me. The lakes and waterways in this area were used by the voyageurs, and before that the coureur de bois, and before that by French Canadian explorers searching for the Western Sea and to establish the fur trade. Now I understand how the French ended up in what is now Minnesota and Manitoba and went on to explore the Mississippi all the way south to what is now Louisianna.

Ussually the would “water walker” refers to canoeists. But this morning I felt like a water walker as I threaded my way through Rainy Lake over bridges and causeways.

Crossing Rainy Lake


I particularly like the Dragon Fly (there were many)

Not far out of town I met two cyclists heading west: Mario and Maxime from Montreal. They are on a world tour on their bikes and once they get to BC they plan to head south, way south, to Argentina, and then east to Brazil, and from there across the Atlantic to God knows where. They’ve got quite a trip ahead of them. They also told me a lot about what to expect for the rest of my trip.

Maxime and Mario

The ride for the next 120kms was excellent with great roads, light traffic and lots of scenery. I also had my first bear sighting. Up ahead on the road I noticed a car that just passed me stop on the highway and then I saw this big black animal moving along the side of the road. That made me slow down a little. It looked like the driver of the car waited for the bear to move away. The bear eventually left the road and I continued on, at a very fast clip, and on the left side of the road. I didn’t stop to check out the bear.

The rest of the ride was uneventful. I’m glad I brought a lot of water through. I consumed more than 3 litres by the time I got to Atikokan. I had actually planned to go further today. Thunder Bay is still 200kms off. I’d planned to stay at a rest area another 60kms up the road. But by the time I’d reached Atikokan I’d altready cycled 160kms.

But what cinched it is that Atikokan hails itself as “Canoeing Capital of Canada”. The town has a lot of potential with Quetico at it’s doorstep, two canoe manufactures, a paddle manufacturer, and it promotes itself very actively. Maybe this town could be the “Revelstoke” of Ontario one day.

Atikokan has an incredible number of athletes for such a small town

Here’s my route from Fort Frances to Thunder Bay:

I’ve now crossed the 3000km mark. It’s hard to believe. Tomorrow I plan to take my time and enjoy the great roads and the beautiful scenery because I don’t know when I’ll return next to this historic area. If I make it to Thunder Bay tomorrow great, if not, then it’ll be the next day.

Distance traveled today – 161kms
Moving time – 7 hours and 53 minutes
Moving avg – 20.5 kms/hour
Elevation – 420m at highest point